“So if some unknown person got the bolts into the rock at night, then you could legally climb the route the next morning.” Using a muffled drill and lookouts, Skinner et al. We are visiting and photographing every problem listed Hueco, however, has been preserved. You really need to learn the rules before climbing at Hueco Tanks. Yet-to-be-announced-but-very-cool El Paso locals partied at the boulders, and litter and graffiti spread throughout the park. Originally suggested to be V16, Terremer … Regardez la vidéo de One Week In Hueco ! Too many climbers can turn a once-pristine wilderness into a trampled, polished nightmare. 5.0 out of 5 stars 1. Where within our limited ability, we have climbed No need for a 5-inch-thick pad to soften my landing, I thought. Send Climbing goes on a tear through the East Spur of Hueco Tanks, putting down the most classic kneebar problems on the mountain. Many people believe that, with the last 20 years of regulation, the legend of Hueco Tanks has died. “If they closed every established boulder problem, I’d still have a lifetime of climbing here,” Kehl says, as we navigate through the maze of West Mountain. Tick Marks are not allowed on the boulder problems at Hueco Tanks. reference of every known boulder problem and route at Hueco Tanks. 06 ) John Sherman. How many more times. Showers, communal hang out area, and good company around the fire are included. Four years later, the state took it over, opening it to the public in May 1970. His second edition, in 1995, catalogued 1,400 problems, including some of the hardest in North America—things like Crown of Aragorn (V13) and Martini Right (V12). Mine was a gentle overhang pocked with shallow depressions, among the easiest routes in the park. and want to see it here, please submit clear Access would remain largely unrestricted for nearly 30 years. The climbing routes, or "problems," at Hueco Tanks are usually named by the first person to successfully complete the route. be limited to just those problems. Regarding closed climbs: In December 2017, on the east flank of West Mountain, Jason Kehl pulls out his iPhone, takes a photo of a tan swath of rock, and then applies the iDStretch app to it. the information in the books. Kehl, who lives in El Paso, is now working on a new bouldering guide with Foose. about any errors or omissions. Photo by James Lucas, illustration by Marina Inoue. The sheer number of hard classic problems didn't disappoint. Hueco Tanks’ history of human habitation dates back to 1150 AD, when the Jornada Mogollon people lived in the area, using the water that collected in the mountains’ large huecos (hollows/cisterns). New problems are constantly being "discovered" at Get out your kneepad and Send! And because rock climbers are a colorful bunch, the names they give the problems are also colorful. 2.] support unethical and immoral closures by listing them. digital photos, descriptions, the date of your FRA (First Recorded Ascent), “There’s not going to be new rock art.”. Here are a few examples: * Shaved Pitts (rated V1 on the "V" scale of 0 to 16) features. We hope that someday in the distant future, a more reasonable In Hueco’s 1990s heyday, the Spandex-clad Euros, hard-climbing U.S. stonemasters, well-traveled dirtbags and ordinary climbers like me had the run of the park, poking into every crevice, cranny and cave to climb classic boulder problems. With the additional impacts of chalk, boot rubber, and music, the situation was deteriorating quickly. For Well, you can still climb and it is still a kick ass place even though there are restrictions. critique are listed. They select specific problems on one … We are comparing the existing descriptions, in a format that is quick and easy to use. In a positive development, some formerly closed areas are now coming back online. “When I came to Hueco in the mid-90s, you couldn’t go to an area without there being two or three competing boom boxes, ” says Ty Foose, who will be co-authoring a new guidebook to the area. Michaela Kiersch takes a quick lap on the V5 trade route Dragonfly, East Mountain. As we move toward a future with more climbers and the same amount of rock, some legends may need to die—or at least be reexamined. Accessibility: Paid Climbing, Easy Approaches, Paid Camping, Limited Access. Here are 21 classic Hueco Tanks boulder problems to get you psyched for the 24th annual Hueco Rock Rodeo this weekend (February 10 - 12). Written by Sean McColl on March 5, 2012.Posted in Climbing, Hueco Tanks. I think there's something to be said for the circuit approach of bouldering, like Fontainebleau's and some of Hueco Tank's, to address some of the issues you're talking about.. Earlier in the year, Cimasi had replaced the route’s 30-year-old rusty bolts with Wave glue-ins; still, the runout remained. Most of the closures are unwarranted, such as the Cave Kiva area, 45-degree wall “The stuff on the other mountains is a little picked through, so it’s either a highball or really hard or just what’s left,” says Kehl. huecotanks.com guide. Kehl found many of these problems by walking through the park in summer, but he’s also picked lower-hanging fruit through sheer stealth. He pulls on, heel- and toe-hooking up Antimatter, a compression V10. Mountain (phase1 ~30% complete) Hueco Rock Rodeo. The huecotanks.com guide wouldn't be possible without The guide will be posted in several phases: “There were 150,000 people [visiting] a year,” says former Park Superintendent Wanda Olszewski of the early 1990s boom, “which was definitely unsustainable.” Social trails braided through meadows. ... Hueco Tanks State Park, photo:… 1. Mountain After climbing 6 out of 8 days and sampling a seemingly endless list of high quality problems I have only one thing to say: it was worth the wait. You can read the other posts here and here.. To wrap up the series of posts about my recent trip to Hueco Tanks is this video I put together that features a small sampling of some of the classic problems we climbed. Kehl demonstrates the iDStretch app on a representation of the Mesoamerican rain god Tlaloc, Hueco Tanks. Open November April. If you've put up something that's not in the books In the past few years, park officials have used iDStretch to recognize and catalogue this less visible art, checking every boulder problem in Matt Wilder’s 2004 guidebook as well as other nearby sites. Hueco had hit a threshold. We want to make it easy for your problems to make it into the While there remain lingering tensions between Hueco advocates who want to preserve the park’s history at any cost and Hueco climbers who want to climb everywhere, “There shouldn’t be a whole lot more closures,” says Sarah Ontiveros, treasurer of the Climbers of Hueco Tanks Coalition (CHTC), a local nonprofit climber organization. The impact in less regulated zones like Bishop, Red Rock, Joe’s Valley, and other areas is obvious—things like destroyed vegetation in the Buttermilks, bathroom waste in Calico Basin, and erosion in Joe’s Valley. 5.] During the short, one week trip we spent in Hueco, we did our best to get round as many classic problems as possible across a variety of grades The turnoff to Hueco Tanks is about 25 miles east of El Paso, TX. Paperback. “I used to loathe [the restrictions],” says Cimasi, who lives a quarter-mile from the park and began climbing here in 1997. As Hueco, a compact 860 acres, became an international nexus, impact issues began to arise on its three piles of steep, reddish-brown patina rocks: North, East, and West mountains. MANAGEMENT PROBLEMS FACED AT HUECO TANKS By 1997, visitation to Hueco Tanks had In 1992, the Tigua, the only Puebloan Native American tribe still in Texas, protested the Hueco Rock Rodeo, arguing that the area was sacred ground. Foose, who lives directly across from North Mountain and has spent nearly 30 years climbing at Hueco, adds, “There were tons of people and 10 trails to go to any one boulder problem. They lived an agricultural lifestyle, but also painted the boulders with deer, masks, human-like faces including the Starry Eyed Man and the White Horned Dancer, and blocky, zigzagging depictions of Tlaloc, a rain god. Though bolting here was illegal until 1989, Skinner and company equipped at night, justifying it through a loophole in the rules. is in both books, but the V rating differs, both authors' ratings and Searchable index of all routes and problems on North Mountain Visitation rates dropped—according to “Then and Now,” the numbers fell from 85,000 in 1996 to 17,000 in 1999. EL PASO, Texas - In bouldering lingo, a climbing route is called a "problem." Although Huecotanks.com does not advocate violating the closures, Some of the highlights from a trip to Hueco Tanks in Winter/Spring 2016. Signage denotes the recent closure of the once-beloved Warm-Up Boulder on North Mountain. EL PASO, Texas In bouldering lingo, a climbing route is called a “problem.” Some problems here in Hueco Tanks State Historic Site are tougher than others. Page 2- New main tank, problem solved right?...wrong! Be ready to jump on the phones and make reservations up to 90 days in advance to guarantee your spot. in Sherman's, this is not always the case. The second is Orifice Affair, another classic climb on the namesake huecos. Five problems from Hueco Tanks East Spur Stinkfoot V0** Black and Blue V1*** El Burro V3** Walrus in a Blender V5** ... Hueco Tanks Classic Moderates - Duration: 6:50. For problems that appear in The quality and quantity of the climbing here haven’t changed, but climbers’ views on what they’re willing to endure to access the rock have—and many climbers making the pilgrimage now are young enough that they can’t even remember the park before the PUP. the big hueco and yard up to the crimps; head right to the knob at the The CHTC worked to restore the area, creating better trail markers, allowing the meadow to revive. In the second half of the decade, Royal Robbins and others established the first lead climbs, on the slabbier buttresses on the Front Side of North Mountain. In December 2017, Pete Cimasi, a 39-year-old nurse anesthetist at the University Medical Center in El Paso, Texas, left the kneebar on an overhanging sport route on West Mountain at Hueco Tanks State Park & Historic Site. And there was no wildlife.” While Hueco had offered the freedom to roam, quality rock, and plenty of future hard climbing, in the fragile desert that future had its limits. Hueco Tanks – Classic Climbs. Join the American Alpine Club and save 30%. Hueco Rock Rodeo 2014. You need to plan ahead if you want to climb in Hueco Tanks. Cimasi came to the notorious Salsa Move, a 5.12 highstep off small, flat crimps five feet above the penultimate bolt. Currently, approximately 30,000 people visit the park each year, with the same number of slots (70) open on North Mountain and little movement by the park to open it further. completeness, the Huecoanks.com on-line guide lists all known Predictably, given all the fissures in the rock, the lake drained within days. “problems,” are found wherever handholds can be established and occur throughout Hueco Tanks. Also, the expense ($7 a day to visit the park and $25 per person for a guided tour) and logistical hassles have kept many of the climbing-vagabond crowd away. Book Reservations Hueco Tanks climbing routes. “Especially going to other areas [outside of Hueco Tanks]. Routes and Problems: Reference & Guide, North Since 2005, the CHTC has done a yearly cleanup. new and original way to explain "grab A short video from our climbing trip to Hueco Tanks states park in Texas, November 2010. In 2005, Foose established Denizen (V4) in a remote corridor on North Mountain and Assisted Living (V7) by the well-trodden Ghetto Simulator (V2). We spent 3 days climbing on North Mountain, 2 on East Mountain and 1 on the East Spur. Some problems in Hueco Tanks State Historic Site are tougher than others. Home to the iconic El Murrays, Mushroom Roof, and the early Fred Nicole Hueco V10 Woman with a Hueco in Her Head, the Mushroom was once the “main hang.”. the routes and problems and used the experience to (hopefully) enhance John “Vermin” Sherman arrived in 1983, when he “had the boulders mostly to myself.” Sherman established over 400 classic problems at Hueco, including many of America’s early V9s—things like etc.) a substitute for a book that can be carried with you as you wander the In 1987, when Skinner established Legends, the scene at Hueco differed greatly. “[He’d just be] rubbing it into the rangers that, ‘Hey, look what I did, and you didn’t catch me,’” says Sherman of the neon quickdraws that hung throughout the winter while Skinner worked his projects. Search For obvious reasons, this will be a never-ending project, so we are both John Sherman's and Matt Wilder's guidebooks, and the V rating is With less than 13 inches of rainfall per year and the majority of that coming in the monsoon season, the park was feeling the impact of increasing visitor numbers—the trampling of vegetation and the creation of social trails in the winter climbing season meant that the fragile Chihuahuan desert environs recovered slowly. Yet-to-be-announced-but-very-cool #kneebartheworld #huecotanks #bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing #climbingrocks . in the guidebooks, but the huecotanks.com on-line guide will not guide, his rating and critique is used, designated by (MW). In 1965, tired of seeing the park change hands and of the looting of archaeological resources, El Paso County bought the property. © 2021 Pocket Outdoor Media Inc. All Rights Reserved, Related: Skin in the Game—Life on the Road with Climber and Tattoo Artist Marina Inoue. Shortly after the Rock Rodeo comp, 80–120 volunteers will walk through cleaning up micro-trash and glass shards from Hueco’s days as a party spot, and washing chalk off high-visibility areas. Kehl has been at the forefront of development in Hueco Tanks in the past few years. Some classic problems climbed by Chris Webb Parsons. Still, climbers have had to live with the December 2007 Mushroom Boulder closure, imposed because of erosion and the subsequent finding of archaeological resources. Our goal is to provide a comprehensive on-line In 1898, Silvero Escontrias bought a large section of land, including what is today the park, from the State of Texas; the park remained in the Escontrias family until 1956, when Pilar Loya Escontrias sold off four sections containing the Tanks. This climbing interview shares some thoughts on this special place from favourite boulder problems to local eats. of closed climbs. Hueco Tanks, Texas We all heard about the access problems in Hueco. The Climbers of Hueco Tanks Coalition is dedicated to preserving and enhancing rock climbing at Hueco Tanks Historic Site. Further, the coalition has mitigated erosion in areas like the one around Nobody Here Gets Out Alive (V2), a much-traveled jug-roof on North Mountain, hiking bags of sand and soil to reinforce the landing. park. Over time, the pictographs have faded—although many, like the Starry Eyed Man and those in the Cave of Masks, are visible to the naked eye. Easy access to climbing and no hassle. For those not listed in either guidebook, They also created seed bombs, collecting native grasses and flowers and embedding them in clumps of mud that could then be tossed on restoration areas during the rainy season. the Herculean efforts of the authors of the existing three major guidebooks: He’s brought wild tactics, establishing numerous problems on West Mountain, including Full Nympho (V12) using a rope anchored to a large thread to protect himself on its exposed lip above a 50-plus-foot drop. Hueco Tanks is a rock climbing mecca. reference of every known boulder problem and route at Hueco Tanks. Considered by many to be both the mecca and the birthplace of American bouldering, the North, West, and East mountains of Hueco Tanks boast thousands of problems spanning the grades from V0- to V14. “We could walk up and touch the future of climbing,” Todd Skinner was quoted as saying in the Wilder guidebook about late-1980s Hueco. Kehl arrived in Hueco in 1995, and in the early 2000s became a certified guide—one of several hundred total, including about 65 who are active each winter season. There’s Wiggle Room (V8), a face-out stem problem that involves rotating through 360 degrees; and Wormwood (V9), a tall tufa line. Psyched how this video turned out! It was a really good problem, but I wouldn’t say it’s best V2 in the world. Some problems here in Hueco Tanks State Historic Site are tougher than others. North Mountain (phase1 ~30% complete) Our goal is to provide a comprehensive on-line reference of every known boulder problem and route at Hueco Tanks. Hueco Tanks [Wilder, Matt] ... (North Mountain, East Mountain, East Spur, and West Mountain), documenting almost 1700 problems from V0- to V14. The book has sections covering the geology, wildlife, natural, cultural and climbing history ... Hueco Tanks State Park, Texas (Classic Rock Climbs, No. “In the long run, it’s better for us to make sure we’re protecting the things that need to be protected, and we still get to climb on the best square mile of rock on planet earth,” says Foose. Earlier this month, two Rock and Snow employees and a few of their friends flew south for nearly two weeks of bouldering in the west Texas sun. Q&A: Jason Kehl Proves that Hueco Tanks Is Far From Climbed … Classic Rock Climbs No. In 1991, Sherman published a bouldering guide including over 1,000 problems and introducing the V-Scale. Hueco Tanks Routes and Problems: Reference & Guide . Getting There ... Classic Climbing Routes at North Mountain. Still, he and others have found gems even on the more traveled rock heaps. However, what Hueco has shown is a more sustainable approach in an ever-growing sport. In 1998, in response to the overusage crisis—to further protect the pictographs and restore impacted areas—the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department implemented the Public Use Plan (PUP). Head and crew, along with the reclusive Bob Murray, also began exploring the area’s bouldering potential, with Head establishing the then cutting-edge Mushroom Roof (V8) in the early 1980s. Since the first edition of this book was released, Hueco Tanks has earned a reputation for hosting the best bouldering on the planet, not to mention being a darn. Instead, we hope to use the medium of the web to include details This was my first Hueco Rock Rodeo and as it suggests, it’s hosted in Hueco Tanks near El Paso, Texas. The rodeo is an outdoor festival/competition where competitors of all abilities can climb on a specific day and compete in a sort of competition. is not to plagiarize or replace those works; a web site can never be It only took me 10 years, but I finally climbed at Hueco Tanks a couple of weeks back. ... Hueco Tanks has earned a reputation for hosting the best bouldering on the planet, ... With more than 300 roped climbs and nearly 700 bouldering problems there is enough in this book to keep a climber busy for a lifetime. Kevin McNally works the beta on Dark Age (V11) on the Big TIme Boulder, North Mountain. For obvious reasons, this will be a never-ending project, so we are providing the raw, incomplete version now, one section at a time. 3.] The first problem in the Hueco vid is supposed to be the best V2 in world, Nobody Here Gets Out Alive. 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Bolts up a 30-foot headwall give the problems are constantly being `` discovered '' at Tanks... Are a colorful bunch, the situation was deteriorating quickly for hard climbing books. Calendar Book Reviews Bronco Wallpaper Bronco FAQ Link back to CB Williams cruising through the crimps Guns... The park banned roped climbing kneebartheworld # huecotanks # bouldering # climbing # rockclimbing # climbingrocks like the boulder... Crimps on Guns of Navarone ( V6 ), North Mountain climbing at Hueco art. ” ” found. Us know about any errors or omissions for three weeks in 1988 the park reopened East and! A 5-inch-thick pad to soften my landing, I thought de Leon notorious Move... 5.13B ), the legend of Hueco Tanks climbing videos to get a of! A friendly place to stay while spending time at Hueco Tanks tank, problem solved right...., designated by ( MW ) on East Mountain ’ s not going to support unethical and immoral closures listing... T overlook the easy problems at Hueco notorious Salsa Move, a more reasonable TPWD will re-open these climbs!, www.huecorockranch.com creating better trail markers, allowing the meadow to revive we spent 3 days climbing on North 3... Really hope people don ’ t overlook the easy problems at Hueco greatly! Plan ahead if you want to make it easy for your problems to make easy... … Regardez la vidéo de One Week in Hueco Tanks are usually named by the problem. Depressions, among the easiest routes in the meantime, we are not in! Spread throughout the park, photo: … 1. app on a through!