Fold the neckband in half and sew with a quarter inch seam allowance. I’ve seen some cool ready-to-wear inspiration with tall neckbands lately. The band is cut shorter,then the stretch inherent in the knit fabric is used to ease it onto the neckline. If you look at any t-shirt you own, it will probably have a band around the neck. Topstitch around a neckband. If your sweatshirt is a pullover, take a minute to make sure that you can get the new neckband over your head. When you sew up your pattern, carefully stretch the band to fit – you should just be able to pull gently. I really love the wider needle but if I'm topstitching a narrow seam allowance in place (like on a neckline) I prefer the narrower needle. 3. I first tried a twin needle when I was in high school and I just couldn’t get it to work. When you’re done, gently tear the paper away. Thread machine according to your machine’s manual. TIP: Keep your eye on the neckband fold and try to keep it an even distance from the presser foot so it ends up an even width all the way round. Lisa. For really thick fabrics you may go all the way up to a 5. The Tabor V-neck is an all seasons t-shirt and sweater for knits. If you need […] Neckbands may seem tricky and intimidating to a beginner sewist. Different machines behave differently and you may need to play around and adjust your techniques to find the method that works best for your machine. Sew the pattern according to the instructions until you get to the point where you will sew a narrow hem on the neckband. Sewing a clean t-shirt neckline can be the start of getting your handmade knit garments to have a finish you can be proud of. Mine rarely is! It is usually sewn in the round. On the right side of the outfit, topstitch the neckband by sewing 1/8" down from the seam, being sure to catch the seam allowance underneath. It’s a stretchy thread that will help your stitching lay flat. Attach walking foot to machine and insert twin needle. You don’t need a fancy machine but I do recommend a few supplies. Now unfold the neckband and sew the 2 short edges together with a 3/8″ seam allowance. It looks a little less professional than the twin needle but if your thread matches the fabric quite well you probably won't be able to see the stitching anyway. If videos aren’t your thing, I have an older blog post about twin needles here. Step 16: Turn the neckband up. This one — adding a standard knit neckband — will be the first of the three. I automatically did it (sewing all those knit shirts from Ottobre has paid off!) Begin by placing a pin at the seam of the neckband; this will match up with the center bodice back. (This will secure the threads and create a clean look on the right side of the garment.). Option 2, (if you don’t have a walking foot) place strips of tissue paper underneath your fabric as you stitch. At end of stitching, raise presser foot, pinch garment at stitching line and pull away from the machine about 8 inches. The bobbin thread will be slightly stretched between the two top threads. ; For a super stretchy rib knit you might have to go below 70%, but remember that if the rib knit is … Now that you have all the background you’re ready to topstitch your knits! Then fold the neckband again and press with a warm iron. Knit fabrics are great to wear and fun to sew with but they can be a little tricky to handle. But there’s so many more ways to sew a t-shirt neckline! Taught by Lisa . Press well, smoothing out the curve so it does not stick out or stand up away from the garment. Free. Sew the neckband to the neckline with a zigzag stitch or a serger. I have two methods for helping feed your fabric through a conventional machine. Instructions to attach neckband on a knit fabric: 1. Dec 31, 2015 - Today we’ll be covering how to add a neckline band – the most common neckline finish you’ll see on tshirts. With the bodice right side up, topstitch the seam allowances to the bodice close to the seam line with a wide and even zigzag (2 x 2mm or 2.5 x 2.5mm). All photos and contents on this site are copyrighted by the author, Megan Nielsen, unless otherwise noted. Once attached, it will ping back to it’s original size and in the process it will pull the neckline inwards slightly; and this action is what allows the neckband to sit flat against the body. I was intimidated by them for a long time but with a lot of practice and a few tricks I picked up along the way, I’ve been able to conquer those stretchy beasts. One needle on the neckband and one on the yoke. Log in. Place garment under needle, lower presser foot and stitch. Taught by Lisa . Tutorials. Gently pull the ends of the top threads to the wrong side and tie in a knot with bobbin thread. "), Sewing Machine with Walking Foot(or if you don’t have a walking foot, some strips of tissue paper as discussed above). So far I've only used it in the bobbin when topstitching and I totally love it. Tasi Robe and Jacket - A Draft-it-Yourself PDF Pattern. Tutorials. Knit neckbands are an essential part of almost any knit shirt. I hope these tips will help you in your sewing adventures. For the Women’s Page I have drafted a 7/8″ (2 cm) tall neckband, and for the Mini Page I have drafted a 5/8″ (1.5 cm) tall neckband. Cut the pattern as usual. I've read that it's often used when serging and with undergarments. 2. Now, sometimes you can’t find matching rib knit or you want to make a self fabric neckband. I like to use wooly nylon (or fluff thread) in the bobbin. The seam allowance is turned to the wrong side. Topstitch is made from the top of the fabric and you get to see how you are stitching all along – but that does not make a Top stitch great – you need some tips and tricks for a perfect topstitch. A good length is usually about a 4 on the dial. Press the seam allowance toward the shirt and the neckband away from the shirt. The paper creates a stable base for the fabric that the feed dogs can grab onto and push under the needle. There are varying widths of twin needles so you can have a little fun and try different looks. Yay! Above you can see the 2mm on the left and a 4mm on the right. Taught by Lisa . This will leave all the bias tape on the inside of the garment and so that only top stitching is visible on the outside. Knit fabrics can vary a lot in stretch percentage, and you would have to re-calculate to make the neckband fit perfectly. This happens to be the default way the neckband is finished in my Flashback Skinny Tee sewing pattern, though that pattern also includes a few other alternate neckline finishes as well. Set your machine to a straight stitch. £5.00. When … Trim ends. Twin Sewing Needle. The stretch of the wool nylon lets the two top threads lay flat. If the thread can't stretch, the stitching can break (you can actually hear a pop when this happens). I was scared to do it again for a long time after that because it didn’t work just that one time. I hold the front fabric with my right hand and the back fabric with my left hand to stretch the neckband as I sew. Lisa. Free. Some machines even have a special setting for using a twin needle. SUPPLIES. (I like to use a 3.0 stitch length, just slightly longer than normal.). Press the seam allowance open. And remember it's ok if your topstitching isn't perfect. 4. ... Knit fabrics are almost always top stitched with a twin needle stitching.This reinforces the edge and avoids the wavy look. And don't worry, you don't need a fancy machine, this can all be done on a conventional sewing machine. Now, you could master the classic knit neckband which is a worthy goal. I’m not sure if this a proper way to do it, but it’s held up well and keeps the seam from curling to the outside. The wide needle can end up topstitching with one needle on the seam allowance and one on the outside which then creates a ridge. I made a size 2 for the tutorial (not my actual size – I need an 8 for my broad shoulders! The grey bodice above has a band.A binding has a similar function, but looks more like the bias binding you’d find on a woven garme… Watch the video above or on YouTube here. Do you have any tips or tricks for stitching knits? With many different options for sleeves, necklines and body lengths, you can make a Tabor V-neck for every season. I bet if I had read the manual (or if sewing blogs existed back then :) I would have been able to make it work. If you’re new to installing a knit neckband, I highly recommend starting with a jersey knit like this, it makes the process much easier. UPDATE: Check out my video for how to use a twin needle. But I finally gave it another go, read the manual and now I love it. Also be careful not to stretch the neck edge while you sew. Press the t-shirt neckline seam towards the body of the t-shirt. However, following a few basic steps and a little bit of practice will give you confidence in your abilities. The height of the neckband is a personal preference. You can topstitch along the seam, on the body of the sweater, using either a zig zag stitch or double needle. My favorite books about sewing with knit fabric How to attach a neckband in the flat. Sewing Machine with Walking Foot (or if you don’t have a walking foot, some strips of tissue paper as discussed above) Next divide the neckline and the neckband ring into quarters. If you want more info on sewing with knits I recommend a couple of books that have really helped me: Sew U Home Stretch by Wendy Mullin and The Colette Guide to Sewing Knits by Alyson Clair. Pro Tip: Topstitch just below the neckband for a more finished look. I have one spool in off white and one in black and that's so far worked well for any project. Discovering this thread was something of a revelation. Designed by and for curvy women, the Appleton's innovative neckband construction prevents gaping across your bust. Today, I’m going to share my favorite method for topstitching knit fabrics plus some tips and insight on why knits can be so bothersome. How to topstitch on knit fabrics. Now you need to decide how tall you want your neckband. Pro tip: Neckband option 1 is for a jersey knit or ribbing. And sometimes the zig zag looks really cool. The fabric can bunch up, get stuck in the throat plate and the stitch length will be uneven and wobbly. Best suited for light to mid weight jersey knit. 5. Also a note – the pattern recommends using a ribbing fabric for the neckband, cuffs, and hem band of view A. Please share in the comments. 2. This classic wrap dress is designed to play up curves with a crossover front, a built-in waist tie, and a deep V-neck. Sewing a knit neckband is and important technique to master. 1. It should be flat and smooth. How to insert a concealed zip. Finish sewing the last couple inches of the neckband to your t-shirt, stretching the neckband while you stitch just like before. I like the neckband’s seam to be a little behind the left shoulder seam – I think it makes it look a bit more professional. A thinner tissue knit or rayon knit would be much more challenging due to the curl factor. A good rule of thumb for a regular crew neck t-shirt opening is to make the neckband piece around 70-75% of the neckline circumference. Cut thread leaving a 4-5 inch tail. It is especially important when topstitching something like a knit neckband or sleeve hems to use a really long stitch. As a last step you can topstitch around the neckline to keep the seam flat. Introduction to sewing with knit fabrics. Stitch the neckband to the bodice, using a stretch stitch, narrow zigzag stitch or overlocker. Your fabric is going to stretch as you wear it, so you want your stitches to stretch too. When using regular thread in the bobbin, the two top threads can pull together a little and create a ridge. Fortunately, I’ve got you covered on that too. By hand, loosely wind wooly nylon thread around bobbin. Topstitch the binding in place by sewing close to the outer fold on the bias tape. First, let’s clear up a little terminology.A band is a length of fabric that’s folded in half and stitched into an opening. 6 important things to know before sewing a neckband. And you might want to do a test fit in the neckline of the sweatshirt, using lots of pins. Repeat with threads at beginning of stitching. Do not cut on the bias but instead cut side-to-side. (This will help prevent the fabric being pushed down into the machine by the needle.) When using a straight stitch for topstitching the stitch length needs to be long. Stretch the neckband to fit as you sew, but let the sewing machine feed the fabric through at it’s own pace. Cut a 2″ wide strip of fabric. I used a twin needle to topstitch mine. Lisa. Optionally, topstitch the seam allowance with a … To create a stretchy topstitch, use a twin needle or a zig zag stitch. Neckband option 2 is suitable for knits with a little less stretch like the Organic Cotton Knit Ultra. Taught by Lisa . The walking foot has feed dogs on the top that help move the fabric evenly under the needle. Lisa. If you are sewing up your Renfrew top with something more stretchy than a stable knit, you will want to cut your neckband pieces down an inch or so to take advantage of that nice stretch. A twin needle is the best way to get two lines of stitching that are perfectly spaced from each other. This method can be used on hems or to finish a neck or arm binding. 2 spools regular thread (You don't need to buy to full spools of the regular, just wind up a bobbin with the regular thread to use as the second "spool."). Gently stretch the neckband to fit between the pins, taking care not to stretch the bodice neckline. Wooly Nylon Thread (aka fluff thread). The more stretch the rib knit has, the shorter the neckband piece should be. Finish it off with a topstitch. You can attach a neckline band to any tee using either ribbing, self fabric or contrast fabric. It's a loose-fitting drop shoulder tee, built for comfort while still looking smart. How to Sew a Knit Neckband What is a Knit Neckband. The zig zag stitch is also a great option for topstitching. Find the shoulder point of your neckband by looking at the shirt neckline, then mimic the shape with your band. You should have a front and back piece, two sleeves, and one neckband. If you are starting at the edge of the garment, place a strip of tissue paper under the garment with a tail hanging out the back. After you attach the neckband, you might want to topstitch and hem it using a twin needle. You can either sew on the top side, the band side or straddle the seam – i’ve seen it done all ways :) Remember: you don’t need an overlocker or serger to sew with jersey. Happy sewing! Another problem is that in areas with a sharper curve (like the shoulders), you need to apply more stretch than others. 2 spools regular thread (You don't need to buy to full spools of the regular, just wind up a bobbin with the regular thread to use as the second "spool. Option 1, use a walking foot (on left in photo above) when stitching knits. My machine (Brother CS-6000i) has specific threading instructions for using a twin needle and I recommend reading your manual to make sure you do it the way your machine likes. All tutorials and patterns are copyrighted by Megan Nielsen. How to Topstitch Knit Fabric. And the bodice has you well covered. Stitch the neckband to the neckline with a stretch stitch or serger. If the neckline is saggy and gaping, then shorten the neckband. If desired, you can also topstitch with a stretch stitch just under the neckline seam to help the seam allowances lay flat. Due to its wide, oversized body width, the Tabor V-Nec A good, steamy iron can help a lot in sewing, especially when it comes to a neckband in knit fabrics – the steam will help the neckband shrink back down to size and sit nice and flat. Binding or a coverstitch to finish a pocket opening; as a hem; on the neckline opening: Most common problems when using the coverstitch machine. The big difference between sewing knits and woven fabric is the stretch. Here I stitched it in place first, then finished the edge with the serger. Free. This will help the neckband and seam lay flat, as well. Refashioning has taught me a lot about how ready-to-wear deals with binding knit edges. You’ll just need to make sure that your fabric has the appropriate amount of stretch. And if it’s pulled too tight and puckered, then cut a longer neckband. The wooly nylon thread is a stretchy thread that's made up of multiple strands. A basic sewing machine does a great job of feeding your woven fabric under the needle but it can be challenging to feed a stretchy knit fabric. The twin needle has two threads on the top and one on the bottom (the bobbin). Next, we can pin the neckband to the shirt, but first we need to mark some key points to match up. You can use the zig zag stitch on your sewing machine, or a twin needle! 3. Tutorials.